FARMINGTON, N.M. - The sweeping vistas of mountains, mesas, and glowing red sunsets seen from 250 feet above the La Plata River Valley mesmerized the Navajo Indians centuries ago. The Navajo did not enjoy plush carpeting, a waterfall shower, or an entertainment center. But today, visitors to a New Mexico bed and breakfast built in a cave can get modern conveniences and still enjoy the area's natural wonders. As far as creator Bruce Black has researched, the Kokopelli's Cave Bed & Breakfast is the only establishment of its type located in a cave. The site is set in a sheer cliff and visited daily by nesting golden eagles, ringtail cats, foxes, and the occasional mountain lion. A geologist with his own consulting firm, Black comments on the petrified wood and the signs of ancient rivers that once ran high above the valley. The inn is actually more of a cave house located about 70 feet below the surface of the bluff. It is reached by descending a dizzying series of steep steps cut into the sandstone; the route tends to distract a visitor's mind from Black's interesting discourse. But nothing prepares one for the cave itself. It is 1,650 square feet of unanticipated luxury. The area is thickly carpeted in earth tones and furnished in a way one visitor described as ''Fred Flintstone meets Martha Stewart.'' The master bedroom features a queen-sized bed raised onto handmade woodwork, double sliding-glass doors leading to a balcony, and a spectacular view of several mountain ranges and a valley roamed by elk and mule deer. A central pillar separates the other living areas - a dining room with a replica kiva (a room in traditional Pueblo Indian dwellings used for religious and other purposes), a kitchen, and a living room with a television, VCR, and compact disc player. The bathroom offers a sandstone waterfall for a shower, set into a Jacuzzi that could accommodate several people. There is a flagstone porch with a barbecue pit. ''We spent our 20th anniversary here,'' Susie Moore wrote in the comment book that Black leaves on a living room end table. ''I can't say how long it's been since we watched the sun go down and just kept sitting until the stars came out. I spent every possible moment watching the changing sky and wildlife.'' ''I never thought I'd celebrate my birthday in a cave,'' wrote Duane Ford, of Santa Cruz, Calif. ''I never thought I'd propose to my girlfriend in a cave. I don't want to leave.'' Chuckling, Black said Ford told him he never intended to propose that weekend. ''But the cave has good effects on people,'' Black said. ''We've seen a lot of wonderful things happen here.''

Black had the cave blasted out of the rock in 1980. He originally intended to use it as an office, but decided access might be a bit grueling for his clients. In fact, the cave is so remote that guests check in at Black's home in Farmington and must be led over a series of deserted dirt roads to the location. Once the hole was opened, Black and his son did most of the work on the interior themselves. The bed and breakfast opened for business in 1997. The cave has electricity, gas, and water, but there is no need for cooling or heating. Like all caves, Black said, it remains 65 to 70 degrees year round, although it is closed from December through February. The rate is $180 a night per couple, but the cave can accommodate six people for a slightly larger fee. ''Oh my GOSH!!!!'' wrote Lynne Poole of Stillwater, Okla. ''What a real treat!!!! We have it ALL.''

This story ran on page A3 of the Boston Globe on 8/14/2000. © Copyright 2000 Globe Newspaper Company.